There are many different ways of setting up an anchor trolley but are all essentially built around a continuous loop of cord running through 2 pulleys - one at the front of your kayak and one at the back. Some people use a trolley running only half the length e.g from midpoint to stern or mid point to bow, others have full length trolleys set up on both sides of the kayak to provide more options for positioning the kayak at anchor. I use a full length anchor trolley set up on the starboard side of the kayak. Here's how i set up my anchor trolley on the Hobie Outfitter:
What you will need:
- Marine grade braided cord - 6mm diameter and just over twice the length of your kayak
- 3 x stainless steel carbine snap hooks - 2 around 30-40mm in length and 1 larger one around 80-100mm in length
- 2 x mini marine pulleys
- 2 x stainless steel pad eyes/deck loops
- 1 x zig zag cleat
- 1 or 2 lashing hooks depending on how you want the trolley to sit on the side of the hull
- 3 x large beads/stoppers
- Marine trifold rivets or Well nuts - enough to attach all the components - i used 8 on this current set up.
- 1 x stainless steel ring - anything from 40-80mm will be ok
- Small length of elastic
- Clear silicon or Marine Goop
All this equipment should be available in your local chandlery shop. If your not near a marine chandlers then it can all be brought online - Cornwall Canoes stock an good range of marine hardware for kayak anchoring.
First step was to mark out where the pad eyes will be fixed, one at the bow and one at the stern - mine are positioned approx. 6 inches back from each and approx. 4 inches below the top of the hull - more importantly they will be above the waterline. After that its a case of drilling holes the same size as the the diameter of the rivet of well nut. I use marine trifold rivets which are perfect for use on kayaks - the rivets have a silicon seal and neoprene gasket to give a waterproof seal. The soft aluminium shaft of the rivet collapses and splays in three sections giving maximum hold in soft plastics. I have used well nuts on my teksport and they do the job reasonably well but since using the rivets i wont be using them again. I found that the holes in the pad eyes/lashing hooks well too small to take the rivet so they were drilled to increase their size. I also use a dab of clear silicon on the rivet before pushing it into the hole to further reduce the chance of water entering the hull.
Once i was happy with the set up of the cord loop the next step was to position the zig zag cleat and rivet it in place. I position mine within easy reach of my seating position. I applied a good coating of silicon to the base of the cleat to create a waterproof seal. The cleat is used to stop the trolley sliding between the pulleys therefore keeping it held in your desired position.
I found at this stage that the front portion of the trolley wanted to move up over the foot well so to keep the cord at the desired position i fitted a small lashing hook.
The trolley can be easily moved into position then the line tucked under the hook to keep it away from the footwell whilst fishing.